Authentic 50s Diner found in Lapahoehoe

A blast from the past
New restaurant brings back bygone era
By Karen Welsh
Tribune-Herald Correspondent
Happy days are here again at the "Back to the 50's Highway Fountain," located at 35-3074 Old Mamalahoa Hwy, between mile markers 24 and 25 on Hwy. 19 in Lapahoehoe.
The happiest person of all is owner and manager, 35-year-old Christopher Ignacio. The diner is the culmination of a lifelong dream.
"I always wanted to open up a diner," this 1987 St. Joseph High School graduate said. "I was a teacher for the previous 12 years at a private school on Oahu. Then, this opportunity presented itself and I came back to East Hawaii. My dad and I spent three months renovating the building before we opened."
Although it's not open around the clock, business hours are from 7 a.m. to 7 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday, and 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. on Sunday and is always closed on Monday.
Don't expect the usual fare, because this unique restaurant promises to awaken all five senses for those who come through the doors.
Sight is the first sense to be inspired. A showcase of classic model cars and pictures of Marilyn Monroe, Elvis Presley, James Dean and Lucille Ball line the walls.
A black and white checkered floor, and red and white gingham curtains provide a perfect backdrop to the Coca-cola tablecloths and turquoise counters, lined with red and black stools, stationed near the old-fashioned soda and ice cream fountain.
Sound is the second sense enticing patrons. A jukebox in the back of the building plays one golden oldie after another.
And, if the song is catchy, it's okay to sing with a mouth full. In fact, belting a tune is encouraged by Christopher's dad, Larry, who often comes to help his son at the popular eatery. The elder Ignacio enjoys leading others in songs from his era.
Smell is the third sense to score high points. From homemade bacon cheeseburgers to chicken katsu, the aroma is mouth-watering.
Taste is the sense that will receive the most fulfillment. This 50s hotspot offers "Be-Bop Breakfasts," that include Mahi and eggs, sweetbread French toast, spam, steak, Portuguese sausage and other starters until 10:30 a.m. each morning.
Christopher said there are locals that come every day for breakfast.
"We have the usuals every morning," he said. "It's sort of like 'Cheers.' We have a guy we call 'Norm' because he's here everyday."
The "Rockin' Rollin' Lunchin'" menu is offered from 10:30 a.m. until closing. Head Cook Mae Fukui prepares all the main dishes, including burgers, crispy fries, Korean chicken and other local fare, fresh and hot off the grill. Most items are then served in a red basket with a red and white checked paper lining.
Ice cream treats, which include malted milk shakes, banana splits, floats and other delights are made right before the customer's eyes and are palette pleasers. That keeps people coming back for more.
Helen Layaoen, age 81, a resident of the senior housing in Lapahoehoe, said she's already eaten at the restaurant three times since it opened and plans to come back for more.
"It's good," she said. "It's very tasteful. I like to take home the leftovers."
Touch is the last, but not least sense, however not in the traditional sense. It's touching to see people enjoying themselves and having fun.
Once the establishment opened it's doors on Sept. 6 2004, it quickly became apparent the experience was going to attract customers of different age groups.
Mary Chun, the coordinator of senior services in Lapahoehoe said those she works with come to the restaurant because of the food and atmosphere.
"The seniors enjoy coming here," she said. "The old songs bring them back. and the food is wonderful. It's delicious."
Carpenter Gareth Babagay, age 28, was working on a job site near Lapahoehoe said he was pleasantly surprised to find the diner a couple of weeks ago.
Since then, he's eaten there everyday.
"I've come everyday for the past two weeks," Babagay said. "The pork cutlet is good. It's a reasonable price too."
When the lunch crowd starts to ebb, the teenagers from the local schools take over the restaurant. It's already become a popular hangout for many youth living in the area.
Lapahoehoe High School Ninth Grader Aulii Maikui, age 14, said her friends come at least three to four times a week after school to meet and eat.
"The food is good, it's much better than the food at school" she said. "We just come down here to eat after school. Everything is good that I've tried so far. We like to sit outside to eat and talk story. Before we used to go home or stay at school. This is much better."
Tourists have also begun to find the 50's eatery. Maps on the walls with pins stuck in various locations show visitors from all over the United States and other countries, including Finland, Ukraine, Russia, Korea and Japan who have eaten at the diner.
"We've had customers from every continent," Christopher joked. "Except Antarctica."
Montana residents Vance and Marilyn Goddard found the eatery quite by accident while traveling around the island from Kona.
"We saw the sign and are from the 50s era so we decided to stop," Marilyn said. "I was a little surprised to see this era restaurant here."
Christopher, who named his establishment after his grandma's 1940's Highway Fountain in Paauilo, said although the business is successful, there are some important issues he will need to deal with in the near future.
"The restaurant has gone beyond my wildest imagination," he said. "We're going through growing pains right now, but they're good growing pains. The grill is too small and we need to expand the kitchen. Seating is also a hot commodity and I would like to expand back and build a deck so people can eat and enjoy the ocean view."
Christopher credits his father, Larry, for coming up with the 50s concept.
The elder Ignacio is proud of his son's achievements and plans on sticking with him through all his successes and struggles.
"I only see expansion in the future," Larry said. "We've just gotten busier and busier. It's never slowed down. But, for me, it's a joy. My son has come home, so we celebrate the idea that he has come home. It's like a gift for him to be here."
For more information on the restaurant, or to order take-out, call (808) 962-0808.